C6 LED Headlights

When I visited Bintulu somewhere 2 months ago, I saw an ad on Facebook, from a shop called Modern Car Accessories (you can search their page on FB), and they had this sale on all car accesories. Being an avid car lover, going to the shop is like going to Sephora for ladies. And I got this C6 LED Headlights.

The C6 LED Headlights were sold for RM48, and for Perodua Viva, the size is H4. 

C6 LED Headlights

Left : C6 LED Bulb
Right : Osram H4 Halogen Bulb

Left: Halogen bulbs
Right : LED bulbs

To pair with the projector fog lamps below, I've installed the LED headlight. Installation is straightforward and no drilling or wiring necessary.

Happy DIY!

Installing Angel Fog Lamps / Projector Fog Lamps on Perodua Viva

WARNING : A CONSIDERABLE AMOUNT OF PHOTOS AHEAD

Back again with a new post. Had been preoccupied with so many things at work, and at times, too tired to open the laptop once I arrived home. In my previous post, I mentioned about installing angel fog lamps or projector fog lamps on my tiny rocket.

LED Fog Angel Eyes R500

Contents of the box

I bought the 3.5 inch angel eyes for my Viva from one seller off of Mudah.my, and I was really disappointed with the service provided by the shop. It took me 1 week for the item to arrive, with a lot of reasons given by the seller, and the seller couldn't bother to reply my WhatsApp until I got furious. Then, to make matters worse, the seller gave me a wrong tracking number which belongs to another customer. I won't reveal the details of the shop, but if you are an avid reader of Lowyat forums, there was a negative review regarding some rim covers.

Old foglamps

My OEM foglamps broke as I went to Kuching few months ago, and I couldn't be bothered to spend another RM170 for a new set of foglamps, and another one was leaking due to driving through floodwater.

Things that you will need;
1. A set of projector fog lamps
2. 4 pieces of Size 10 bolts and nuts
3. Enough wiring
4. 2 sets of relays (1 only if you have existing fog lamp wiring)
5. Cable ties
6. Philips screwdriver

Start off with taking off your bumper and dismantling the fog lamp from the bumper.

The fog lamp is held by 2 Philips screws

After that, dismantle the fog lamp assembly from the base, leaving you with only the steel base of the fog lamp.

Projector fog lamps base

Using the provided fog lamps base from the box, cut it into half using a sharp steel scissors.

Projector fog lamp base attached to the original steel base

Using 2 Size 10 bolts and nuts, secure and fasten the projector lamp base to the steel base.

Fog lamp attached and secured.

Based on the photo above, I've bent the projector fog lamp base to fit to the screw thread on the side of the fog lamp, screwed it tightly and securing the assembly even more using cable tie.

View from top

New fog lamp assembly screwed back to the bumper

Relay wiring

There will be 2 pairs of wires, one for the fog lamp itself, and another one for the angel eye. If you have existing wiring for the fog lamp, connect the projector fog lamp wiring to the available wiring. If you don't, then you will have to create a new wiring harness for the lamp.

For the angel eye itself, I used a separate relay as the power required by the angel eye needs to be 12V, which can be supplied from the battery. I bought the relay together with the socket for RM15, and it is made by Bosch, so there is a peace of mind regarding its quality. The simple wiring diagram is as follows;

Wiring diagram

My hood can do 90 degrees FTW

Completed

After all the wiring has been done, tidy all the wiring and install everything back to its place.

Lighted up

The wiring process is simple to do, and it took me 3 hours to tidy up all wiring and completed this.

 As always, happy DIY-ing!

Perodua Viva : Increasing Height of Lowered Springs

It's been quite a while since this blog was updated, and in that period of time, I ended my internship and graduated 2 weeks ago. Today, I am going to share how to increase the height of your Perodua Viva for those who are using standard lowering springs, like mine.

My setup for the Viva is using Kelisa's springs in front and Myvi's springs at the back, because when I bought the lowered springs, they did not have the springs for Viva. But then, after years of use, and being in Sibu where the potholes and bumps are unforgiving, the springs seems to be too low for me, and everytime the car is fully loaded, it would scrape at even the smallest bump on the road.

I did some research, and found out that I can actually raise my car a few centimetres by using thicker coil spring buffers/pads/cushions (not sure what is the exact term for it). I found the information from some forums for Saga BLM owners, and tried asking the spare parts shop, whether they sell the same thing.

Original Viva on the left, Myvi/Kenari on the right

Viva on the left, Myvi/Kenari on the right

The difference of height of the coil spring buffer is obvious, with the Viva having thin rubber, and the Myvi's rubber being twice thicker than the Viva. It costs RM14 per pair, and it is easy to install. 

Tools needed:

1. Car jack

2. Spanners

3. Size 16 box spanners

Initial measurement of the ride height

Before I start, I took a rough measurement of the car's height and the space between the fender and the tyres fits 3 fingers, but it was very tight, and I can feel that my fingers are squeezed between.

Jacking up the car

First, jack up the car and take the wheel off the car.

Location of the spring buffer

The coil spring buffer is on top of the spring. Pull it out and take it off the car.

New coil spring buffer in place

Then, put the new coil spring buffer in and install the springs at the original place. 

Taking off the rear absorber

I found it difficult to put the springs back as the absorber was in the way, so I used a size 16 box spanner to open the absorber, set the springs back in its original position, and installing the absorber back in its place.

Height measurement after installing the coil spring buffer

After installing everything back, I took another rough measurement of the car's height. The space between the fender and the tyre can easily fit 3 fingers and there is an extra space in between.

Happy DIY-ing!

Headlight Restoration using Samurai 2K Clearcoat Spray

Last weekend, I had an opportunity to restore a family friend's BMW 525i headlights. It was in a terrible condition due to old age of the car and most probably had been exposed in the sun for too long.

The condition of the headlights before restoration

It had tiny cracks on it, and it was quite yellowish. The light output wasn't that bright as the casing is very blurry. The owner contacted me, booked a time slot for the service, and the car was done in 3 hours, as the headlamp was in a really bad shape.

If you are thinking of attempting this project on your own, you will need;
1. 500 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, 1500 grit sandpaper
2. A spray bottle filled with soapy water
3. A bucket filled with water
4. Samurai 2K-in-a-can Clearcoat
5. Newspapers and painters' tape
6. A clean microfibre towel
7. Lots and lots of time.

If the condition of the headlights is not that bad, you can skip the 500 grit sandpaper entirely. But then, if 800 grit sandpaper could not sand down the case, you will need it.

First off, the headlights were taped around it with painters' tape as when you wetsand it, there are chances that you will accidentally sand the paint with it when sanding the edges of the headlights. To protect the paint, it is essential to cover the paint around it. Before sanding, soak all of the sandpapers in water for at least 10 minutes before sanding.

Start off  by wetting the headlamp and the sandpaper with soapy water. Then, start sanding with 500 grit sandpaper in one direction. The trick is to sand either horizontally or vertically and change the direction when you change the grit of the sandpaper. For example, if you're sanding 500 grit horizontally, sand 800 grit vertically. This is to ensure that the whole surface is covered and there are less high and low spots. When sanding, make sure that the surface is always wet. When the cracks appear to be less, move on with 800 grit until the surface is flat to touch. Then, move on with 1000 grit sandpaper, and end with 1500 grit sandpaper.

After sanding.

For this particular project, I used the Samurai 2K Clearcoat which I had mentioned previously in the post where I sprayed my car bumper. The instructions are affixed at the can, where the 2 parts are mixed. When it is opened and mixed, make sure to use it within 4 hours.

Samurai's 2K in a Can

I learned this from a paint shop in Kuching, and when you use this clear coat, the coat can last for 3-5 years, depending on the weather and how the car is maintained. I forgot to take the photo as the winds were blowing strongly at the time and I was rushing for the car to be completed.

Before using the product, make sure that the surface is clean and dry. Cover EVERYTHING that may be in contact with the mist coming from the 2K clearcoat. I learned this lesson the hard way as the clearcoat mist came in contact with my Viva and it left a very rough surface on the car.

Spray the headlamp with multiple coats, and make sure that there are flash times between coats, meaning that before spraying another coat, the underlying coat is dry enough. When it is not dry enough, cracks can form on the clearcoat and it will look horrible. When you are done, let it dry properly.

After clearcoating.

When it is dry enough, it leaves a hard & glasslike coating which will last quite some time.

At a different angle

Close-up

If you are in Sibu, and is interested to do a headlight restoration on your car, just drop a comment below and I will reply to you soonest.

For the DIYers, happy DIYing!

Smoked Headlamp - Aikka Nano Coating

It has been quite some time since I last wrote anything on the blog due to different commitments which includes times where I am too lazy to anything. Today, I would like to share a process of smoking your headlights using Aikka Nano Coating, but this one was done by someone that I found online.

Last time, my Viva's headlamp was broken due to a failed experiment on respraying the insides, causing the lens to crack and become unusable. It was really ugly, and the lights came brand new with the car. So, I had to source for a second hand headlamp, but it was horribly yellow. I tried sanding and polishing, but it became yellow after a month of full sun exposure.

Most of the shops do not spray on a layer of protection, as when we sand down and polish using rubbing compound, the UV protection layer is gone, and that is why the headlights become yellowish and fades faster.

Yellowed headlamp. 

To save cost and to give the headlamp a new lease of life, I decided to call a "coating specialist" that claimed they could save the headlamp, so I gave it a try. The cost was RM75, and if you happened to be in Kuching, Sarawak, search for his name on FB - Eddie Ambrose. I think the cost depends on what car you are using.

Sanding down with 800-grit sandpaper

The first step was to sand down the headlamp to clear the yellowing as much as possible. As far as I know, they used a 800-grit sandpaper and wetsand the headlamp.

The right headlamp which is yellower.

Prepping works

A good prep is essential to keep overspray from being in contact with other parts of the car. 

Sprayed with the first layer

The headlamp was sprayed with 3 coats of the "nano-coating" and the end result is a darkened headlamp.

End result

This was done within 45 minutes and the headlamp is still dark until now. When I resprayed the bumper, it really blends in well with the whole colour of the car. 

After the bumper has been resprayed

Happy DIY, if you have all the tools! A simpler headlamp restoration would be in the next post.

DIY : How To Spray Paint Your Bumper at Home Using Aerosol Cans

As I mentioned before in my previous post, I would like to share how to spray paint your bumper at home using aerosol cans. Sending your bumper for paint at workshops would set you at least RM200 including GST (that dreaded bloodsucker), but I did mine for less than that inclusive of the new bumper.

As my Viva is a standard version, I’ve always been in love with the design of the Viva Elite. It looks much more appealing if compared to the standard Viva. Back then, if you have noticed in my previous posts, the bumper is a Viva Elite bumper but it’s black. It’s not painted black, but the colour of the material (polyurethane/PU) is black. Being the thrifty person that I am, I had not painted the bumper for 2 years and it has gone through quite a beating. It’s plain ugly. So I decided to get rid of the old one and opted for a new bumper instead.

Viva Elite bumper

I’m using the Taiwan Viva Elite bumper which costed me RM72.10 including GST, and I bought it at Standards Kuching, Mile 3. I always get my parts there because it’s the cheapest that I could find.

What do you need if you plan to do this DIY? Here I will list down the items you need.

1.       Plastic Adhesion Primer (RM23.10)

2.       1K Primer (RM18)

3.       Aikka colour-coded paint (Rm31.60)

4.       Samurai 2K Clearcoat (RM26.50)

5.       1200 grit sandpaper (RM2)

6.       Soap and water

7.       Patience

All and all, this particular project will set you back RM173.30 inclusive of GST. I managed to save a bit as I found a bottle of 1K primer in the store, a leftover from my previous project. I did this entire project in the span of 2 days as the weather was not that friendly and I really don’t have time to spend to do it in one day.

First of all, before starting with anything, clean the bumper with a cloth. I was too excited to bother washing it with soap, as I will need time for it to dry. What I did was, I wiped the entire bumper with a microfiber towel. Next, after wiping, cover all the parts that you don’t want to get spray on with masking tape and newspaper. The hardest part in masking is to cover the grille and the holes where you put the foglights at.

After masking it all off, spray it with the plastic adhesion primer. This is a MUST when spraying a new bumper because there is simply no grip for the paint to adhere on. When there is no adhesion, the paint won’t stick. If it does stick, the paint will crack and peel off in a matter of months. The plastic adhesion primer is clear, and one can is enough for the entire bumper. It dries off very quickly, and it leaves a rough surface on the bumper.

After spraying with plastic adhesion primer

Once the plastic adhesion promoter is completely dried, the 1K primer comes next. Give the bumper a thin coat of primer, and once it flashes off, a thick second and third layer of primer is sprayed on. After the primer has dried, it is then wetsanded using a 1200 grit sandpaper and soap. The purpose of wetsanding it is to make sure that the primer is smooth. Some may disagree with this part, but I’ve noticed that when I don’t sand at this stage, I have to sand the clearcoat which is much hassle and I need a polishing machine to get it right. Once it is sanded and the primer is smooth, let it dry before the next stage.

First coat of primer

3 coats of primer done, and wetsended 

The colour stage is done the following day. It is a good practice to shake the can vigorously for at least a minute before spraying and shake the can for 15 seconds after spraying each coat. It is to make sure that the paint inside is mixed properly and when you feel that the spray nozzle is clogged, turn it upside down and spray it somewhere to clean the nozzle. I managed to do 2 coats with 1 can, and it is sufficient for me. Good coverage, even spray pattern, is all that I need.

"Medallion Grey" is actually Bluish Gun Silver S33

Paint shop

Once it is done, let the paint settle for few hours before clearcoating it. I’ve used Samurai 2K clearcoat which I got from a local motorcycle workshop. Even though it says that it is for motorcycle use, the quality of the clearcoat is as good as using a spray gun. It has 2 parts, the clearcoat itself and the hardener, combined into one can. This is a very good product, as my last 3 projects, I had been using Aikka clearcoats that is mixed in an aerosol can, and it only lasts for 45 minutes. And if compared to Samurai, Samurai is better.

Samurai 2K Clearcoat

The trick of getting a smooth finish for the clearcoat is to make sure that the winds are not blowing and the paint is clean. No dust, no cat fur, no sand. (I have cats here). Spray the first coat lightly and the following coats heavy. Not too heavy, as you may end up with a runny clearcoathich may turn ugly. I did it in less than 30 minutes, inclusive of time between coats, and the clearcoat was dry to touch within 3 hours in cool conditions. What I’ve read online is that the clearcoat doesn’t need much heat to cure as it is a chemical reaction that takes place during the curing process.

Once the clearcoat is dry, I installed the newly painted bumper onto the car the same night because I was that excited to see the car finally get a new face. The old bumper was uninstalled and came the new bumper. It is simply marvelous.

The old bumper

Getting rid of the old bumper

New bumper installed

After so long, the Viva has finally got its deserved facelift

Till next time, I will post more DIY projects and perhaps some other projects of interest.

Aaron.

Zaptor Evolve II Voltage Stabilizer

Few months ago, I decided to install a voltage stabilizer in my Viva after I added a set of subwoofer at the back of my car. Since I'm always playing my subwoofer on full blast, my fuel consumption got higher. Why? For every bit of power consumed from the battery, the alternator has to charge the battery, and when the alternator is working, fuel is consumed. To lessen the effect, a voltage stabilizer is needed to regulate the surge of power and to provide extra power when needed.

Zaptor Evolve II

I got this Zaptor Evolve from a friend of mine, and it was RM100. The benefits of using this voltage stabilizer as I copied from a seller at Lowyat, he states that;
BENEFITS OF USING VS:
1. LIGHTER PEDAL FEEL
2. SMOOTHER ACCELERATION
3. COOLER AIR COND
4. BRIGHTER LIGHTS ( CABIN & HEADLAMPS )
5. LESSEN THE KICK BACK-FEEL WHEN THE AIR-COND KICKS IN
6. MIGHT IMPROVE FUEL CONSUMPTION
7.QUICKER ENGINE START

After a few months using this voltage stabilizer, it does make my Viva more responsive and I can easily overtake a few cars with the added VS and grounding cables.

P.S: Sorry for such a long setback on the update because I was quite preoccupied with so many things and my addiction for DoTA is getting worse.

Happy reading!